The First of Many Archers
I’ve been planning on making at least one button up shirt since the very beginning of this self-made wardrobe project. The Archer pattern from Grainline Studios was perfect, and after this one I plan on making at least two more, (one of them in a solid so I don’t need to do any pattern matching).
Materials
– 3.5 yards (45″ wide) of a very lightweight basic plaid cotton that I got at Elegant Fabrics in NYC
– 10 1/2 inch “la petite” buttons with a fake metallic looking finish (they say “not recommended for washing or dry cleaning,” which I didn’t notice when I was buying them – so we’ll see how the hold up in the wash)
– lightweight black fusible interfacing
– basic black thread
Pattern
“Archer” from Grainline Studio – Jen did a great sew a long on the Grainline Studio blog, which I followed for some of the steps, since the instructions included with the pattern are concise
Modifications
I cut a size 4, then added about 5 inches (12.7 cm) of length to the body, because I like my button up shirts long.
I also added 1 inch (2.5 cm) of length to the sleeves, which makes the sleeves a smidge too long when the sleeves are rolled down, but the absolute perfect length when they’re rolled up (which is how I always wear them.)
I made view A, and did an inverted box pleat at the center back.
What Worked Well
Most things.
I love the fabric, I love the pattern, I love the fit, I love the length, and I’ve been wearing it basically nonstop since I finished it (and even before it had buttons). Now that it’s winter, the heat is cranked up, and since I don’t have control over my heat, it makes the perfect light indoor layer.
When it came to attaching the yoke, I used the “rolled up burrito” method that Jen wrote about during the sew-a-long, and loved it. I hadn’t done it before and it’s so much easier than anything else.
What I’d Do Differently
I placed the center of the box pleat at the center back, on one of the white plaid stripes, and I really wish I had centered it on the yellow stripe that’s less than an inch to the left. It’s hard to see in the photos, but feels a little off kilter in person.
There isn’t much I’d actually do differently, I’d just pay much more attention when cutting because there was a fabric and/or pattern piece wibble, which led to the left front being off grain, which means the center front stripes don’t match up.
To be fair, I do my pattern cutting on the floor of my living room, which involves sometimes stepping on my fabric to get to the other side to move pieces around. I’ve been doing this for years without a hiccup, so I was probably long overdue for a mishap.
Lets Talk Pattern Matching
(in sewing pattern matching is where you cut your fabric so that the fabric matches across a seam – kind of like in knitting when you increase/decrease within a stitch pattern, the goal is to create shaping without interrupting the patterning – it can sometimes get a tad crazy making.)
I laid my pieces so that the body of the shirt would match (side seams & center front). I’m not super concerned about the sleeves matching the fronts, or the cuffs matching the sleeves.
I cut the yoke, and the right front button band are cut on the bias, so no stripe matching necessary there.
(for the people who don’t sew: when talking about woven fabric, “on the bias” means” at a 45 degree angle from the warp, vertical threads, and weft, horizontal threads – since, in this fabric, the stripes are made with the warp and weft, cutting on the bias gives you a piece with diagonal stripes – more about warp & weft here.)
So I pattern matched the sides and center fronts, but then something happened to my left front that caused it to slip (probably me stepping on the fabric), this caused the center fronts to no longer line up, and it also means that I cut the left center front off grain (not quite parallel to the warp, vertical threads). Sad panda.
Unfortunately I didn’t notice it until I was attaching the pockets, and didn’t have enough fabric to recut the piece. Super sad panda.
Want to see exactly how far off it is?
And the most annoying part?
Look at how well that side seam matches!!!! You can barely find the damn seam! Grrrr!!!
Ah well. If I wore my button up shirts closed it would be one thing, and I’d figure out how to make the misalignment less noticeable (probably by adding a wide bias button band to the left front to help fool your eye).
However since I never close my button up shirts – unless it’s stupidly cold (in which case I don’t care about much and hopefully wouldn’t be wearing this shirt), or I’m taking photos to show you how far off the stripe matching is, – I decided it’s something I can live with.
At least the not-matching-ness at the center front isn’t noticeable while the shirt is open.
I did however, get a touch of totally unintentional pattern matching on my right sleeve cuff. Maybe it was a consolation prize.
one sweater, one shirt, two shawls – lots of making happened this week
Each Wednesday, I post little snippets about what’s happening, and what I’m working on.
In complete contrast to last week, lots and lots of making happened this week.
My entirely handspun sweater got sleeves! It’s desperately in need of a good soak, but first a new neckline, a looser bind off at the hem, and about a million ends woven in.
I started my 2nd Archer Button Up Shirt, and got through the side seams. Just the collar, cuffs, hem & buttons left. And this time, the buttons shouldn’t take me weeks to put on because I already have them.
I started a new shawl! It’s my own design (pattern coming eventually), knit out of Toil & Trouble’s amazing and ploompy “merino/silk lace”. I’m holding two strands together and knitting on a US size 5 (3.75mm) needle. The colors are “Smoke Signals”, & “Apollo,” I love how it’s coming out.
And I have a new shawl pattern coming soon! It’s called Rosmerta, knit out of Julie Asselin’s lushious “Merletto,” in the color “Anémone.”
The pattern will be available on Ravelry Friday, and I’ll have hard copies & the sample at VKLive on Saturday.
If you’re in or around NYC, I’ll be at VKLive Saturday, and in the Knitty City Booth (#710) at 11am. I’ll have shawl samples, and hard copies of a couple patterns (including Rosmerta, Tumbling Deco, Eirwen & the Shawl Geometry Books). I’d love it if you would stop by and say hello.
A week of freezing temperatures and cozy sweaters – The Self-Made Wardrobe Week 23
The Self-Made Wardrobe is a project where I only wear garments I’ve made.
It’s sort of a year long experiment in getting dressed without clothing labels.
DAY 155 – JANUARY 2nd
Deconstructed Black Sweater
Black Tank Top
Graphic Silk Circle Skirt
Black Tights
Brown Boots
Various Rings
I still can’t get over how cozy this deconstructed sewn together sweater is, especially while the wind is whipping around, and everyone is bundled it. This super cold weather is definitely making me want to sew another sweater.
DAY 156 – JANUARY 3rd
Blue & Green Archer Button Up Shirt
Black Tank Top
Black Scarf
Black Maxi Skirt w/ a Slit
Black Leggings
Various Rings
It’s cold enough outside that even days spent inside in front of the computer call for giant scarves and fuzzy leggings.
DAY 157 – JANUARY 4th
Hand Knit Sweater Dress
Black Scarf
Black Leggings
Various Rings
My absolute favorite type of scarf is a properly gigantic scarf made out of a thin material. I love my scarfs crazy long and super wide – even though it means you can’t really see the dress in this photo… (You can get a better look here.)
DAY 158 – JANUARY 5th
Not-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater
Black Tank Top
Black Maxi Skirt with a Slit
Brown Boots
Long Necklace
Various Rings
I finished my purple sweater! I love it! It’s exactly what I wanted it to be – even though the process of knitting it was a rather windy process.
Also! I finished it, and it only took me a couple days to write a post about it (as opposed to the weeks it normally takes…)
DAY 159 – JANUARY 6th
Blue & Green Archer Button Up Shirt
Black Tank Top
Pirate Skirt
Black Tights
Brown Boots
Bicycle Clock Necklace
My first Archer button up shirt is finally finished! Even though I’ve been wearing it for weeks, I only got around to adding buttons & button holes a couple days ago. But it’s done! Well and truly done – expect a finished object post soon.
DAY 160 – JANUARY 7th
Deconstructed Black Sweater
Not-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater
Black Tank Top
Graphic Circle Skirt
Black Tights
Brown Boots
Long Necklace
Various Rings
The goal of my purple sweater when I was designing it, was to create a sweater that was warm enough to wear on it’s own, and thin enough to wear under another layer. And it totally meets that goal! I held two strands of lace weight yarn together, so the fabric is thin and drapey, and warm, plus it didn’t take forever and a half to knit.
DAY 161 – JANUARY 8th
Boring Black Sweater
Black Tank Top
Cascading Flowers Skirt
Various Rings
I learned many lessons for my No-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater from my Boring Black Sweater, which I knit using one strand of lace weight, and took forever to knit, and which ended up with too short sleeves.