thoughts & things


weaving, and more thoughts on process and product

Each Wednesday, I take stock of the projects I’m working on, and where my brain is at.

handweaving in progress

More weaving this week. And it’s gotten me thinking even more about the connection between process and project (product).

Are you in it for the process?
Or for the product (project)?

These weaving projects,
the one up above,
and the multi color length of fabric from last week,
started because I had the yarn,
and wanted the fabric.

(Project) Product.

I want the fabric.

I want these yarns to combine and interact,
to play and dance off of one another.

There are plenty of ways to create fabric.
And tons of things that can be done,
once the fabric is finished.

I don’t know what I’ll do with this fabric once it’s done.
But I want the fabric.

And I chose to create a woven fabric,
because weaving is faster than knitting.


Because weaving is faster than knitting.

Back when I originally got this pile of yarn,
it was the middle of winter,
in the middle of my self-made wardrobe project.
It was damn cold.

And I had originally thought about making,
a slip stitch knitted sweater with this lovely pile of autumnal yarn.

A slip stitch,
to blend the colors –
like in my crazy colorful sweater (that still needs sleeves).

And because,
a simple slip stitch (knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, slip 1, etc.),
is wicked warm.
(It’s the stitch I used to knit my winter coat.)

But that never ended up happening.
And so the yarn sat.
And sat, and sat, and sat.
And then I borrowed a loom.

Originally I borrowed the loom for a totally different project.
But I wanted to get some practice first.
I’ve woven before, but not on a rigid heddle loom.

So I finished what was already warped,
and then warped one of the skeins from my pile of yarn,
And started blending colors,
two colors at a time, five colors in total, plus the color of the warp.

Last week, I started and finished, and was entranced by the process.

Entirely entranced.

Entirely entranced by the process.

It turns out,
that I have no internal rules about weaving + color.
I have many internal rules about knitting + color.


I have a part of me speaking up and saying,
“what the hell are you talking about?
“you have NO RULES about knitting + color,
“you’ve knit this, and this, and this,
“and you’ve worn them all.”

To which, I have to laugh and say,
“yes, that’s very true.
“But the process felt different.”

The process felt different.

The process feels different.

With my knitting, I plan the whole project from the beginning.
Sometimes it changes.
Oftentimes it changes.

But from the beginning,
I can visualize the finished piece.
The beginning, the middle, and the end.
They are planned.
It is planned.

With my weaving, I don’t.

I don’t care.
I don’t care that, the end and the beginning are entirely different.
I don’t care that, the middle stops and starts.
I don’t care that, the transitions between colors aren’t smooth.

I don’t care that the piece of fabric doesn’t look visually complete.
I want the fabric.
And I want the fabric for it’s malleable fabric essence.

I want to create the fabric because this fabric isn’t in existence anywhere else.
I want the fabric to be fabric, I’m just going to cut it up anyway.

The project isn’t done yet.
The final project isn’t even started yet.

Once the weaving is done,
the weaving is done.
The fabric is complete.

The project,
whatever the project ends up being,
isn’t done.

The process feels different.
Because the product is different.


Is it more expensive to make clothes or to buy them? – The Self-Made Wardrobe the whole money thing…

The Self-Made Wardrobe is a project where I only wear garments I’ve made for a year.
It was a year about making things and seeing what happens.


For a long time making clothing was cheaper than, or at least as expensive as, buying ready-made clothing. As store bought clothing got cheaper, and the fast fashion industry grew & fed upon itself, this became less and less true. Until it became significantly more expensive to make clothe than to buy them. But is that really the case?

Is it more expensive to make clothes? Or to buy them?

The short answer is… it depends… ???

Since I have access to so many numbers for all of the clothes I made as part of the self-made wardrobe, I figured I’d go through and calculate out the cost for each garment.

The Cost of Materials

cost per garment(click to embiggen)

A quick note about the colors on the graph! The dark blue bars = pieces I bought materials for. The light blue bars = pieces I stash dove for. Having a large stash of yarn & fabric on hand all year was a huge(!!!) part of this project succeeding. Carrying on…

The least expensive piece cost $7.50 (US dollars btw), and the most expensive cost $126.40. *though! I didn’t include the cost of my winter coat or tank tops, which were approximately $221 for the coat, and $7 per tank top, and therefor would have been the most expensive and least expensive.

These dollar amounts are for the approximate cost of the materials + patterns/classes for each individual garment. I pulled from receipts where I could, and estimated (for fabric) or looked up (for the yarn) retail prices for what I pulled from my yarn & fabric stashes.

For the most part I didn’t include the cost of notions/thread/interfacing, since most of those came from my sewing kit, and would have only influenced the cost of the garment by a couple dollars.

The most expensive piece turned out to be my Versio Sweater for $126.40* and the least expensive piece was my Blue Kimono for $7.50 – no surprises there.
*interestingly, this sweater was the only piece where I combined stashed and bought materials…

So if the entire 27 piece wardrobe cost $1,047.95*, and the average was $38.81, then I could have easily bought a more expensive wardrobe (just like I could have easily, easily, easily spent significantly more on this project), and I probably could have bought a cheaper one.
*keeping in mind that this is for clothing only – this project didn’t include any undergarments, bags, shoes, or accessories.

But the problem with comparing made-by-hand clothing and store bought clothing is that you’re comparing the retail cost of raw materials with the retail cost of finished pieces of clothing – and those numbers represent two very different things.

No where in any of these numbers for my wardrobe is the cost of my time. Or the cost of my education, or experience that comes from a lifetime of royally screwing up projects (aka a lifetime of sewing & knitting experience).*
*because somethings can only be learned by fucking them up yourself.

And with those “hidden” or “sunk” costs comes the quality that made-by-hand-with-love clothing has, which store-bought clothing generally doesn’t, is constant, focused, attention.

On some level, every single piece of clothing is made-by-hand. From the cheapest fast fashion T-shirt to the highest end couture – some human being sat at a sewing machine or a table with fabric + thread + needles, and in collaboration with many other human beings, made a garment.

But the devotion and attention to detail that made-by-hand-with-love clothes are made with, generally translates into longer lasting garments.

So it only seems natural, since I have access to how much each garment I made cost, and how many times I wore them, to calculate the cost/wear of each garment.

The Cost per Wear of a Garment

The “cost per wear” of a garment is often an idea that gets tossed around as a justification for spending more money on higher quality garments, but the argument is not usually accompanied by a number, probably because calculating that number in reality is pretty annoying (unless you’ve been taking daily photos of yourself and what you’re wearing for a year… which I still can’t quite believe I did…)

cost per wear(click to embiggen)

Obviously, these aren’t the cost per wear over the lifetime of the garment, just over one 365 day stretch of time. I’m not just going to get rid of everything now that the projects over, so the cost per wear is only going to get lower as I wear the piece more often. And I expect to be wearing, at least some of, these pieces for years.

I expect to be wearing these clothes for years, not only because they are well made, but also because I designed them to last.

Most of the pieces I made for this wardrobe aren’t trendy pieces, they are mostly solid versatile pieces – they’re not all basic basic in the way that my black sweater or black maxi skirt are basics, but most of them are pretty damn versatile and can be styled tons of ways (even pieces like my pirate skirt or Versio sweater).

And that brings up another bonus of making your own clothing, that isn’t taken into account when we talk about the cost – you can create versatile pieces.

If a garment is only meant to be worn once or twice, there’s no point making it versatile. But if your clothes are built to last then you probably want them to be more than just one thing. Kind of like in a relationship.

So all of that being said…

The average cost per wear of my self-made wardrobe was $4.55 per wear. Figure I averaged two of these pieces a day (sometimes one in summer or three in winter), and that comes to $10 per day.*
*not counting tank tops but the cost per wear on those negligible is less $0.10 per day. And remember this doesn’t include shoes/bags/accessories/undergarments.

But that average includes the cost per wear of the two garments that I only wore once. And since I only wore them once, their current cost per wear price is the price of the whole garment.

If I had worn them twice, that cost per wear would be cut in half, and bring the average cost per wear of my whole wardrobe down from $4.55 to $3.67.

And if I take the average cost per wear of my wardrobe without the two pieces of clothing I only wore once, the average is $3.00 on the nose.

And again, this average can only go down as I wear each piece of clothing more often.

So I guess, the conclusion is… it depends???

I started this post asking, “Is it more expensive to make clothes? Or to buy them?”

And I guess the answer is “it depends?” Which is a quite unsatisfying answer.

But it brings us back to transparency, the elements that influence the cost of things, and the problems with comparing store-bought clothing and made-by-hand-with-love clothing.

Using my black maxi skirt as an example again, that skirt cost me $18 +notions +time +experience.

I could have bought a black maxi skirt at Forever 21 for $20, at Zara for $40, at Madewell for $100, or at Anthropologie for $100+ or at any other price point I could think of.

I could have bought any of those and it might have lasted for 92+ wears, or not.

My time and experience are both certainly not cheap, and the black maxi skirt was absolutely one of the less expensive & fastest pieces in my wardrobe.

And none of this takes into account the enjoyment I get from making, the enjoyment I get from shopping (yes I enjoy both), or the frustrations of either.

Maybe it all comes out in the wash?

It sort of feels fruitless to compare made-by-hand-with-love clothing and store bought clothing, given how many elements (hidden and transparent) go into “the cost” of a piece of clothing, and how different those elements are between store bought and handmade.

And aside from the actual money cost (to us the consumer) of a piece of clothing, there are the intangible, but very real, pros and cons/benefits and frustrations for each way of obtaining clothing.

When you make your clothing yourself…
You can get a perfect fit, if you’re willing to spend the time, and you have the skills. You can make exactly what you want, if you know what you want, and you have or are willing to obtain the resources (tools, knowledge, materials, etc.) to make it happen. You can make your clothing one of a kind, if you spend the time searching for unique patterns & fabrics. You don’t have to support sweatshops, if you have the skills, and you know where your materials come from. You have an enjoyable hobby, if you enjoy it.

When you buy your clothing…
You can wear your clothes immediately, if they already fit and don’t need to be taken to a tailor. You can wear pieces of art made by some of the greatest designers in the world, if you can afford them, and they fit you. You can try things on before committing to them, if you have the time. You can support ethically produced clothing, if you have the time to research brands, and the money to afford it. You have an enjoyable hobby, if you enjoy it.

I could go on about this all day, so I should probably stop here, since this piece is already even longer than the first self-made wardrobe wrap up piece I did, about how often I wore each garment.

Maybe the best conclusion to this question is… to each their own, and as is usually the case (at least in the US, in 2015) new clothing is never about the money. 


If you have a wardrobe of 27 pieces, how often do you wear each piece?

The Self-Made Wardrobe is a project where I only wear garments I’ve made for a year.
It was a year about making things and seeing what happens.


As agonizing as it initially was, one of the best things about photographing every day of the self-made wardrobe is that, now the project is over, I can go back and look at things like how many times did I wear each piece of clothing?

I ended the project with a wardrobe of 27 pieces of clothing. Plus a made-by-me winter coat, and a handful of tank tops.

So how many times did I end up wearing each piece of clothing?

self made wardrobe # of wears graph
(click to embiggen)

It turns out a lot, or a little.

This graph shows straight up the number of times I wore each piece of clothing, I just went through the photos I took each day and counted.

I’m not all that astonished that I wore my black maxi skirt and my graphic silk circle skirt the most. I’m also not surprised that the second cluster from a scale of most worn to least worn included my 1st Archer, my cascading flowers skirt, my boring black sweater, or my jeans.

I’m a little bit amazed that my black maxi skirt and my graphic silk circle skirt stood up to 92 wears and 85 wears respectively, and while the circle skirt is showing a little bit of wear and tear, the maxi skirt looks like it could go for another 92 wears.

The fact that I wore my handknit sweater dress 22 times amazes me. I could have sworn I had worn it, at most, once or twice. Though thinking back on it, that was the piece of clothing I turned to when I just wanted to stay in my pjs all day.

I’m a tiny bit surprised that I only wore my handspun handknit sweater 7 times, and my 2nd purple pullover 4 times – but these few number of wears has more to do with how late in the year I finished them, not how much I love them.

self made wardrobe day garment introduced
(click to embiggen)

You see I first wore my handspun handknit sweater on day 206, and my 2nd purple pullover on day 270, towards the end of winter, so neither sweater had much of a chance to get worn before the weather turned warmer.

While I was counting how many times I wore each piece of clothing (tally marks for days…), I made a note of when each piece of clothing first appeared.

This creates a pretty accurate (though not perfect) timeline of the order I made my clothes in. With the exception of a handful of pieces I made before the self-made wardrobe, I usually wore a new piece of clothing no more than a day or two after I finished it.

Since this is a makes a decently accurate timeline, I found it really interesting that from Day 1 through Day 98 there was a pretty steady introduction of new clothing. Then from Day 98 to 206 there were only two new pieces, my 1st Archer, and my 1st purple pullover. And at the end of the project there were a handful of pieces all of which I really adore.

This actually makes a lot of sense.

I started the project with a scary small number of made-by-me clothes, so the beginning of the project involved a lot of making clothes in order to have something to wear, which led straight into fall & winter sweater knitting. And then when I got a comfortable number of clothes I got a little bit of burn out, so I didn’t make as many clothes. Then when I started making clothes again, I had a much better sense of what I would love wearing, so some of my absolute favorite pieces came more towards the end of the project.

wears as percentage of days owned
(click to embiggen)

Since I already had the number of times I wore each piece, and the number of days it had been part of the project, I thought it would be interesting to look at the number of times I wore each piece of clothing in relation to how long it was part of the project.

So this chart shows the number of times I wore a piece divided by the number of days I “owned” it (for the handful of pieces I made before the self-made wardrobe project “owned” = was part of the project).

For example, even though I wore my jeans for the first time on Day 230 of the project, I managed to wear them 45 times, which is about once every third day, or 33.09% I owned the jeans. Make sense?

Along with my jeans, I’ve managed to wear my grey maxi skirt about 1/3 of the time I’ve owned it as well, even though it was the last garment I made for the project (the final piece of the project is actually a toss up between the grey maxi skirt and my 2nd archer button up, the archer was worn before they grey maxi, but got it’s buttons added after the skirt).

I’m not all that surprised that my black maxi, 1st archer, and graphic circle skirt are all hovering around 25% of their lifetime so far.

Though I find it interesting that there are some interesting clusters: my boring black sweater & 1st purple pullover are both at 15%; while my deconstructed sweater & vine print skirt are at 11% (even though they were finished over 150 days apart); and there’s a nice little cluster in the 6.5%-8% range of various garments that I thought I wore more often than I did.

Damn that was long!

I didn’t mean to go on for quite that long, but I hope you found something interesting in there. I found it really interesting to go though and notice patterns that I had no concept of while I was in the middle of them.

I also have some numbers, charts, and thoughts about how much each garment garment cost, and also how much each garment cost in relation to how often I wore it – but I’ll save those for another post, since this just crossed the 1,000 word mark.

If you have any questions or noticed anything else interesting, just leave a comment.