The First of Many Archers
I’ve been planning on making at least one button up shirt since the very beginning of this self-made wardrobe project. The Archer pattern from Grainline Studios was perfect, and after this one I plan on making at least two more, (one of them in a solid so I don’t need to do any pattern matching).
Materials
– 3.5 yards (45″ wide) of a very lightweight basic plaid cotton that I got at Elegant Fabrics in NYC
– 10 1/2 inch “la petite” buttons with a fake metallic looking finish (they say “not recommended for washing or dry cleaning,” which I didn’t notice when I was buying them – so we’ll see how the hold up in the wash)
– lightweight black fusible interfacing
– basic black thread
Pattern
“Archer” from Grainline Studio – Jen did a great sew a long on the Grainline Studio blog, which I followed for some of the steps, since the instructions included with the pattern are concise
Modifications
I cut a size 4, then added about 5 inches (12.7 cm) of length to the body, because I like my button up shirts long.
I also added 1 inch (2.5 cm) of length to the sleeves, which makes the sleeves a smidge too long when the sleeves are rolled down, but the absolute perfect length when they’re rolled up (which is how I always wear them.)
I made view A, and did an inverted box pleat at the center back.
What Worked Well
Most things.
I love the fabric, I love the pattern, I love the fit, I love the length, and I’ve been wearing it basically nonstop since I finished it (and even before it had buttons). Now that it’s winter, the heat is cranked up, and since I don’t have control over my heat, it makes the perfect light indoor layer.
When it came to attaching the yoke, I used the “rolled up burrito” method that Jen wrote about during the sew-a-long, and loved it. I hadn’t done it before and it’s so much easier than anything else.
What I’d Do Differently
I placed the center of the box pleat at the center back, on one of the white plaid stripes, and I really wish I had centered it on the yellow stripe that’s less than an inch to the left. It’s hard to see in the photos, but feels a little off kilter in person.
There isn’t much I’d actually do differently, I’d just pay much more attention when cutting because there was a fabric and/or pattern piece wibble, which led to the left front being off grain, which means the center front stripes don’t match up.
To be fair, I do my pattern cutting on the floor of my living room, which involves sometimes stepping on my fabric to get to the other side to move pieces around. I’ve been doing this for years without a hiccup, so I was probably long overdue for a mishap.
Lets Talk Pattern Matching
(in sewing pattern matching is where you cut your fabric so that the fabric matches across a seam – kind of like in knitting when you increase/decrease within a stitch pattern, the goal is to create shaping without interrupting the patterning – it can sometimes get a tad crazy making.)
I laid my pieces so that the body of the shirt would match (side seams & center front). I’m not super concerned about the sleeves matching the fronts, or the cuffs matching the sleeves.
I cut the yoke, and the right front button band are cut on the bias, so no stripe matching necessary there.
(for the people who don’t sew: when talking about woven fabric, “on the bias” means” at a 45 degree angle from the warp, vertical threads, and weft, horizontal threads – since, in this fabric, the stripes are made with the warp and weft, cutting on the bias gives you a piece with diagonal stripes – more about warp & weft here.)
So I pattern matched the sides and center fronts, but then something happened to my left front that caused it to slip (probably me stepping on the fabric), this caused the center fronts to no longer line up, and it also means that I cut the left center front off grain (not quite parallel to the warp, vertical threads). Sad panda.
Unfortunately I didn’t notice it until I was attaching the pockets, and didn’t have enough fabric to recut the piece. Super sad panda.
Want to see exactly how far off it is?
And the most annoying part?
Look at how well that side seam matches!!!! You can barely find the damn seam! Grrrr!!!
Ah well. If I wore my button up shirts closed it would be one thing, and I’d figure out how to make the misalignment less noticeable (probably by adding a wide bias button band to the left front to help fool your eye).
However since I never close my button up shirts – unless it’s stupidly cold (in which case I don’t care about much and hopefully wouldn’t be wearing this shirt), or I’m taking photos to show you how far off the stripe matching is, – I decided it’s something I can live with.
At least the not-matching-ness at the center front isn’t noticeable while the shirt is open.
I did however, get a touch of totally unintentional pattern matching on my right sleeve cuff. Maybe it was a consolation prize.
A week of freezing temperatures and cozy sweaters – The Self-Made Wardrobe Week 23
The Self-Made Wardrobe is a project where I only wear garments I’ve made.
It’s sort of a year long experiment in getting dressed without clothing labels.
DAY 155 – JANUARY 2nd
Deconstructed Black Sweater
Black Tank Top
Graphic Silk Circle Skirt
Black Tights
Brown Boots
Various Rings
I still can’t get over how cozy this deconstructed sewn together sweater is, especially while the wind is whipping around, and everyone is bundled it. This super cold weather is definitely making me want to sew another sweater.
DAY 156 – JANUARY 3rd
Blue & Green Archer Button Up Shirt
Black Tank Top
Black Scarf
Black Maxi Skirt w/ a Slit
Black Leggings
Various Rings
It’s cold enough outside that even days spent inside in front of the computer call for giant scarves and fuzzy leggings.
DAY 157 – JANUARY 4th
Hand Knit Sweater Dress
Black Scarf
Black Leggings
Various Rings
My absolute favorite type of scarf is a properly gigantic scarf made out of a thin material. I love my scarfs crazy long and super wide – even though it means you can’t really see the dress in this photo… (You can get a better look here.)
DAY 158 – JANUARY 5th
Not-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater
Black Tank Top
Black Maxi Skirt with a Slit
Brown Boots
Long Necklace
Various Rings
I finished my purple sweater! I love it! It’s exactly what I wanted it to be – even though the process of knitting it was a rather windy process.
Also! I finished it, and it only took me a couple days to write a post about it (as opposed to the weeks it normally takes…)
DAY 159 – JANUARY 6th
Blue & Green Archer Button Up Shirt
Black Tank Top
Pirate Skirt
Black Tights
Brown Boots
Bicycle Clock Necklace
My first Archer button up shirt is finally finished! Even though I’ve been wearing it for weeks, I only got around to adding buttons & button holes a couple days ago. But it’s done! Well and truly done – expect a finished object post soon.
DAY 160 – JANUARY 7th
Deconstructed Black Sweater
Not-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater
Black Tank Top
Graphic Circle Skirt
Black Tights
Brown Boots
Long Necklace
Various Rings
The goal of my purple sweater when I was designing it, was to create a sweater that was warm enough to wear on it’s own, and thin enough to wear under another layer. And it totally meets that goal! I held two strands of lace weight yarn together, so the fabric is thin and drapey, and warm, plus it didn’t take forever and a half to knit.
DAY 161 – JANUARY 8th
Boring Black Sweater
Black Tank Top
Cascading Flowers Skirt
Various Rings
I learned many lessons for my No-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater from my Boring Black Sweater, which I knit using one strand of lace weight, and took forever to knit, and which ended up with too short sleeves.
The Not-So-Straightforward Basic Purple Sweater
I have a new sweater! Just in time for more snow.
This should have been the most straight forward of knits, but it wasn’t – at all.
It started as a straight forward enough knit, a top down raglan pullover with long sleeves – just keep knitting, just keep knitting.
But then I decided I didn’t like the neckline, so I cut the whole yoke off.
Which led to a whole slew of complications, out of order knitting, and ends to weave in. (More about that here.)
And on top of that, I spent the whole process wondering if I was going to run out of yarn. It was close, but between the two yarns, I had 7 grams leftover.
Materials
The yarn is two skeins of Madeline Tosh Lace held together (which they’ve discontinued! That makes me a super sad panda.) The colors are “flashdance” and “magenta,” which when held together make an amazing marled purple color that sends my camera into fits of confusion.
I used a needle size 9 (5.5mm) because I wanted thin fabric, so that the sweater could work as a layer under other pieces, or on it’s own, but I wanted to hold the yarn double to make the knitting go faster (because lace weight sweaters take forever, as confirmed by the Boring Black Sweater) so large needles were a must.
Pattern
I didn’t use a pattern, since it’s just a straight forward top down raglan (or at least that’s what it was when I started), and it’s all stockinette, with decreasing for the waist, increasing for the hips, and decreases for the sleeves. I really let the yarn do the work to make the final sweater interesting.
The body & sleeve hems are just bound off using a regular bind off and a relaxing cup of tea. At the neckline I worked an i-cord bind off, which is quickly becoming my favorite finishing for sweater necklines. It’s fast, painless, and looks good – I’m sold.
What Worked Well
Sleeves!!! My sleeves are well and truly long enough! They come down to my knuckles and I love them! Most of the other sweaters I’ve knit have had no sleeves, short sleeves, magically shrinking sleeves, or sleeves that were not quite as long as I’d like them to be but would do.
My unconventional knitting order worked out, and you can’t tell from the final garment. I guess provisional cast ons and knitting from live stitches are techniques that really are seamless.
What I’d Do Differently
The stitches along the raglan shoulder shaping got kind of wonky & wide, probably due to a combination of the loose gauge & the direction I leaned my decreases, don’t love that, but can live with it.
There’s some funky bunching at the underarm, I think caused when I was reknitting the yoke, but hadn’t reworked the math. Don’t love this either, but can live with it too.
I’m really glad to know that the knitting out of order sweaters works in real life and in my brain. However it did lead to a lot of stops and starts, while I waited for enough time/brain power to start a new sweater piece, work out some math, chop the yoke off, etc.
Next time I’d rather go with my gut from the beginning and have a smoother knitting process. Because the funny thing is, that this is the sweater I wanted from the beginning. But I second guessed myself and cast on a different neck, which I then didn’t like, which led to me cutting it off, which led to knitting the sweater in a wonky order, and you know the rest of that story.
I guess there’s something to be learned there.
Aside! How in the world do I only have 5 long sleeve sweaters?!?! No wonder I’m cold & want more. (Sweater 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 is this one.)
