Category

Flourishing Wardrobes

7
May
2016

planning, prepping, drafting, sewing – Summer Wardrobe Infusion Update #1

self-drafted tank top pattern

Whenever I teach students who are first learning how to sew, they always comment on how much time we spend on prepping & finishing, with comparatively little time spent in front of the sewing machine. It’s true, sewing is all about planning, prepping, pressing and pinning.

And the planning & prepping stage is kind of also where my summer wardrobe infusion is hanging out at the moment.

I have all my fabrics, and am starting to print, draft & cut my patterns.

handmade tank top

Tank Tops & Camisoles

The Fabric: 2 yards of a solid black organic cotton
The Pattern: my own self drafted go-to tank top pattern
The Plan: re-draft pattern. cut. sew. wear.
Status: in the works

I redrafted my go-to racer back tank top pattern a couple nights ago, and whipped up a first tank top from it. I have a couple minor adjustments I want to make to the pattern, but nothing major.

I’ll be glad to get these made so I can start concentrating on other projects.

black & white jersey fabric

Over-Shirts

The Fabric: 1.5 yards of a burnt-out cotton jersey & 1 yard of a black/white/lime green graphic print silk/cotton blend & 1.5 yards of a black & white graphic print jersey
The Pattern: self-drafted/traced tees & possibly a hacked up Anna Dress
The Plan: make something… then wear it.
Status: in the wings.

I’m holding off on starting these until I get my planned tank tops & camisoles done. Though I did pick up a black & white jersey to add to the pile along with the black jersey and the black/white/green cotton/silk print.

Anna Dress Pattern print

Anna Maxi Dress

The Fabric: 3 yards of a lightweight blue & white print cotton.
The Pattern: the Anna Maxi Dress from By Hand London
The Plan: squeeze pattern out of fabric, sew & wear.
Status: in the works

I was debating going back to pick up another half yard or yard of this fabric because I have less than the pattern calls for.

I did go back (in the same trip I picked up the black & white jersey, and the upcoming yellow lining), but they had sold out.

So. The plan is still to squeeze this dress out of this fabric.

I printed & cut the pattern a couple nights ago, and I think I can make it work.

If all else fails I can always take some fullness out of the skirt.

plaid dress and lining

San Francisco Plaid Maxi Dress

The Fabric: 3.5 yards of a cotton gauze, bought in SF. A yellow rayon lining.
The Pattern: a copy of my current favorite summer dress.
The Plan: find a lining. Draft, cut, sew, wear.
Status: in the wings

I ended up choosing a beautiful, rich, yellow lining – and I’m really curious to see how this project turns out.

Like my Versio sweater, and my hand-knit sweater dress, this dress will probably end up being something I would never buy in a store. But like both of those sweaters, my guess is, I’ll end up loving it.

(Or totally despising it, but that’s always a possibility with anything.)

hand knitting

That no-longer neglected, lace weight sweater.

The Yarn: 2 cones of “Ito” picked up in San Francisco
The Pattern: my own top down raglan pattern
The Plan: knit. block. wear.
Status: mere rounds away from done

I’ve put in a handful of knitting hours here, and a handful of knitting hours there, and I think I’m only a round or two + a bind off away from having a  finished sweater!

And my guess is the moment I finish my bind off is the moment this dreary weather we’ve been having on the east coast will break.

So really…
I have to ignore this list of errands in favor of my knitting – it’s a public service.

27
Apr
2016

when did making clothing by hand become the path of least resistance in my life?

Each Wednesday, I take stock of the projects I’m working on, and where my brain is at. 

swatches blocking in sun

Mood fabric haul

plaid dress and lining

black & white jersey fabric

recycled pattern paper

The main “making activity” of my week has been wet blocking Shawl Geometry swatches – which is turning into a rather large project.

Normally, this wouldn’t be such an endeavor. I’d block them on my bed, and it would probably take two or three round to get all the swatches wet blocked, but then that would be that.

However, I’m currently subletting and rather than sticking a whole bunch of pins into a mattress that is not mine – I’m blocking on a cork-board.

This has the added benefit of being able to block swatches overnight (the main drawback of blocking on a mattress is not being able to leave it overnight), but the downside is that I can only block a handful of swatches at a time. So, the whole process is taking a while. Le sigh.

So, I’ve been distracting myself by planning an infusion of summery clothing into my wardrobe.

But of course, when I was packing up the clothing I wasn’t taking on my trip with me, I didn’t really think this far ahead. I was more concerned about maximizing space efficiency over ease of unpacking. So everything is packed in vacuum seal bags, and nothing is packed by season.

So rather than going on a clothes hunting mission in my storage unit, which could very possibly be fruitless and just might end in tears – I’m planning an easy and breezy handmade summer wardrobe infusion.

Sort of like an extended Me-Made-May, or a truncated Self-Made Wardrobe Project, either way, a not “normal” way of adding clothing to your wardrobe.

And I’m sitting here wondering, when (for me) did making clothing by hand become the path of least resistance?!

Also! I scored the jackpot on recycled pattern paper – old theatrical lighting plots. Because of course, all my patterns are also in an unknown box in my storage unit…

Oh and! I am not forgetting about my laceweight sweater – it is sitting right next to me on my desk and getting a couple rounds added at a time. Luckily I’m working on the sleeves – so the rounds are short, and a couple rounds at a time for the past couple weeks, has resulted in getting about halfway down the second sleeve!

25
Apr
2016

summer wardrobe infusion – a fabric haul

summer wardrobe infusion fabric haul

I had a plan. And now I have fabric to match.

I wrote up a plan for infusing some new handmade summery clothing into my winter/spring wardrobe on Thursday – then Friday afternoon I closed my computer and headed down to the garment district. I didn’t have a whole lot of time, so I made it a one stop shopping trip to Mood Fabrics – not my favorite fabric store, but if you’re looking for one stop shopping, it’s a pretty excellent bet (plus I had a gift card…)

I bypassed their silks and laces, heading straight downstairs to cottons & jerseys. I knew what I was looking for, and that always makes for easier shopping.

My list was: black substantial cotton jersey, black lightweight cotton jersey, fabric for a maxi dress, lining for the pink plaid I brought back from Stonemountain Daughter in SF, and possibly other over-shirt fabrics.

And that’s more or less what I got.

getting ready to sew tank tops

Tank Tops & Camisoles

The Fabric: 2 yards of a solid black organic cotton
The Pattern: my own self drafted go-to tank top pattern
The Plan: re-draft pattern. cut. sew. wear.

Unfortunately, the original tank top pattern that I made, developed and refined throughout the self-made wardrobe project, is in an unknown box in my storage unit. Sad panda.

I figured this might be the case, so I’m not terribly sad or surprised – just a bit annoyed. Luckily this is not a difficult or time consuming pattern to draft.

To be worn with: everything

lightweight overshirt fabric choices

Over-Shirts

The Fabric: 1.5 yards of a burnt-out cotton jersey & 1 yard of a black/white/lime green graphic print silk/cotton blend
The Pattern: a self-drafted/traced tee & possibly a hacked up Anna Dress
The Plan: make something… then wear it.

The plan for the burnt-out is pretty straight forward – trace my current favorite tee, draft pattern, cut, sew, wear.

The plan for the silk/cotton blend is a little more amorphous. The fabric is an amazing(!) large scale print, with a drape that is too yummy for words. So, I want a pattern that will play to those strengths – something with large expanses of uninterrupted fabric.

At the moment I’m leaning towards doing one of two things – either hacking the Anna Dress from By Hand London into a tunic, or self-drafting a draped top. Whichever I path I choose, this pieces is at the end of the queue, so I can mull a little longer.

To be worn with: all the things!!

PJ Bottoms

A change of plans: I was originally going to make a new pair of shorts (or two).

But I was looking my current ones over and the fabric is fine – the only thing shot is the elastic.

So I’m moving this project from my “to build” pile into my “to mend” pile, with a plan to replace the elastic and then enjoy.

blue white print lightweight cotton fabric

Anna Maxi Dress

The Fabric: 3 yards of a lightweight blue & white print cotton.
The Pattern: the Anna Maxi Dress from By Hand London
The Plan: squeeze pattern out of fabric, sew & wear.

I know the pattern calls for at least 3.8 yards (3.5 meters), but I think I might be able to squeeze it out of three yards. Or I might run back to Mood and pickup a separate piece of yardage for the bodice.

I know if I try to squeeze this dress out of 3 yards I won’t be able to care too much about pattern matching – but the fact that Heather at Closet Case Files managed it, is giving me hope.

To wear with: sandals, all summer long

pink yellow plaid cotton gauze fabric

San Francisco Plaid Maxi Dress

The Fabric: 3.5 yards of a cotton gauze bought in SF. A TBD lining.
The Pattern: a copy of my current favorite summer dress.
The Plan: find a lining. Draft, cut, sew, wear.

My shopping list included picking up a lining for this fabric, but I was standing there and the only thought going through my head was: “What the heck do I line this plaid with?!”

I was thinking of trying to find something that would match one of the colors, a beautiful pink, or yellow, or brown, (definitely not white).

But then my internal monologue was like:
“What about lining it with another plaid and making it reversible?
“But that would not be an easy, breezy project!?
“So, just line it with a solid?
“If so, which color?!
“Pink? Yellow? Brown?
“Introduce a new color?
“Charcoal? Green? Blue? Purple?”

It was one heck of an internal monologue. And enough options to make my head spin – so I didn’t buy a lining. I figured I should at least figure out which color I wanted to look for before going back to find a lining.

As of this typing I’m leaning towards a green or blue. But yesterday I was all about the yellow. So what it will end up as is anyone’s guess.

If this were your plaid, what would you use for a lining?